Hidden gems of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile: A self-guided tour of things to see

Self guided walking tour of the Royal Mile. The hidden gems most visitors miss

The Royal Mile is often dismissed as a parade of souvenir shops and tourist traps (I see it on Edinburgh travel forums every day), but that reputation usually comes from people who never step off the main drag. Want an overpriced cashmere scarf? You’re on the right trail pal! However, the reviews seriously highlighted that these people just hadn’t done their Edinburgh homework.

My enthusiasm for the Royal Mile stretches so far that I could easily build a half-day-tour around all its secret spots and historic nods. And that’s exactly what I’ve done – this self-guided walking tour of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile follows the route zigzagging from Holyrood Palace at the bottom of the Old Town all the way up to Edinburgh Castle.

Along the way, it weaves through secret spots and stories, overlooked corners and small details (that tend to be my favourite parts of the Mile).

Inspired by a wave of grumpy TripAdvisor reviews (found while researching for my blog post about ‘The funniest negative TripAdvisor reviews of Arthur’s Seat’), a route designed for anyone who wants to explore the Royal Mile at their own pace and see the places that rarely make it into standard sightseeing itineraries.

The 24 quote inscriptions at Holyrood, the starting point of your Royal Mile walk

Let’s just start right at the bottom, shall we? The Scottish Parliament building was a controversial one as it shot up in between the buildings in the old town. It’s ‘modern’ architecture was labelled ugly and inappropriate and a lot of the locals still deliver a fair amount of hate towards its appearance.

However, I really enjoy skimming across the famous quotes lining it’s north facing wall. They feature words from Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, among others. It’s just a simple stop, but a fitting place to begin a self-guided walk through a city so deeply rooted in storytelling.

White Horse Close, A hidden seventeenth century close on the Royal Mile

The first time I nipped into this 17th century close, I met an old man who lived in the houses there. He told me that, “Women like me”, would sit on the wooden stairs, waiting for customers from the old tavern to stumble out and purchase their ‘services’. The stairways were a hive of late night activity.

This charming close opens into a small courtyard framed by unusual, almost storybook architecture that gives a glimpse of what the Old Town once looked like.

Dunbar’s Close, a secret garden on the Royal Mile route

One of the best things about Edinburgh’s Royal Mile are the surprise pockets of serenity nestling behind eerie looking alleyways. Just a shuffle up the Mile from White Horse Close sits the immaculately groomed gardens of Dunbar’s Close.

Sheltered by a canopy of trees and protected by an old church wall, this patch of land was developed by the council to mimic the 17th century gardens of times gone by. It’s rare to find more than a handful of people here at a time and so it’s a wonderful place to make a pit stop and enjoy the greenery.

The architecture at the back of Holyrood Scottish Parliament Building. A quick detour on your Royal Mile walk

A quick dart down Reid’s Close, just uphill from the quote inscriptions, brings you to the rear of the Scottish Parliament building. While opinions on the building’s modern design remain divided, the back of the complex reveals fun details that are often missed by those who only view it from the main road.

This stop is brief but worthwhile, especially for anyone interested in architecture or looking for an unusual photo spot on their self guided Royal Mile walking tour.

Bakehouse Close, Outlander filming location on the Royal Mile

I’ve never watched the Outlander series, but I’ve met a lot of tourists that have! It appeared in the third season as part of the storyline involving Jamie and Claire (so I’m told), and its narrow stone passageway and tall tenement walls make it easy to see why it was chosen as a filming location.

The Secret Garden at the Museum of Edinburgh. My favourite quiet stop on the Royal Mile

The Museum of Edinburgh is often missed out or overlooked in favour of the city’s more famous museums or galleries. However, it’s my opinion that this free tourist attraction shouldn’t be forgotten when exploring the capital’s Old Town.

Built within an old 16th century Scottish mansion, the house itself is a real historic find. At the rear of the building, accessed by a small staircase, lies a stone garden that many visitors (and locals) never discover. Here, in this quite little haven, you’ll find some of the most intricate and unique headstones from the capital’s history. Many of these have been rescued from their original (now demolished) homes.

The Ivy Heart at Chessels Court, a hidden photo spot on the Royal Mile

Mounted against the old brickwork of Chessels Court is one of the Royal Mile’s most quietly charming details. A perfectly-maintained wall of ivy that forms the shape of a heart.

Despite its appeal, this little courtyard is rarely busy. I must note, this is a residential area – please make sure you are quiet, quick, and respectful. It’s not a long stop, but it’s a smug little find.

The Heave Away House at Paisley Close, one of the Royal Mile’s best ‘hidden’ stories

I used to call this the best kept secret on the Royal Mile. However, nowadays it’s not uncommon to see tour groups gather outside as their guide tells the story. Though still, every day, hundreds of people walk past the archway of Paisley Close without giving its detailed carvings a second thought. Across the stonework you’ll find the words, “Heave away chaps, I’m no dead yet”.

The inscription nods back to the 1800s, when the old tenement here collapsed, crushing all of its residents. As rescuers worked to find survivors, they heard the voice of a small boy hollering this very line from beneath the rubble. The 12 year old, Joseph McIvor, was one of only 35 survivors and you’ll find his face carved into the decoration as a reminder.

J.K. Rowling’s handprints at the City Chambers

In the courtyard of Edinburgh’s City Chambers, just off the Royal Mile, a series of golden handprints are set into the paving stones. Inspired by the tradition outside Hollywood’s Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, they celebrate figures who have made a cultural impact on the city.

I’m not a Harry Potter fan, but let’s give the people what they want. The most visited are those of J.K. Rowling, whose association with Edinburgh and the Harry Potter series draws fans from around the world. Nearby you will also find the handprints of Sir Chris Hoy, Ian Rankin and other notable Scots.

Rowling’s imprints were recently vandalised (but then cleaned up) in support of the trans community.

Advocates Close. A classic photo spot and viewpoint on a self-guided Royal Mile tour

A quick stop, but a great one for a city landscape photo opportunity. Advocates Close is a tight little lane, once home to lawyers, merchants and members of the Scottish gentry. It now offers one of the best framed views in the Old Town. Looking down the steep steps, the Gothic spire of the Scott Monument rises in the distance.

St Giles’ Cathedral, it’s ceiling and interior chapel

Whilst St Giles’ itself is certainly not a ‘hidden gem’, I’m often surprised by the number of people that aren’t aware of it’s incredible tierceron-vaulted ceiling. The contrast between its blue and gold starry design and the building’s intricate stained-glass window makes for a great snapshot – worthy of a venture inside in its own right.

The old church (technically not a cathedral, as it doesn’t have a Bishop), also has a great timeline board that gives visitors a real insight into Edinburgh’s history, highlighting key global constructions and events in relation to the construction of St Giles’ in 1124. Did you know that it pre-dates the Taj Mahal by 500 years?

The Heart of Midlothian/ A local ‘tradition’ on the Royal Mile

There’s nothing funnier than watching the tourists as they spy a local spitting on a group of cobblestones arranged into the shape of a heart. Why are we gobbing on this specific patch of public space? There’s two stories and both revolve around the heart being built on the site that once housed the old Edinburgh hanging gallows.

The first tale explains that the locals are spitting for the people who committed awful crimes (and were executed for their sins). The second, more woeful tale, suggests that it’s done in disgust for the women who were wrongly hung for witchcraft. Oldey-time Edinburgh LOVED a witch hanging and it’s thought that around 200 women were hung as a result.

Lady Stair’s Close and the Writers’ Museum, a literary stop on the Royal Mile

Duck down Lady Stair’s Close to Lady Stair’s House, a 400-year-old building famous for its romantic turrets and fairy-tale stonework. After being earmarked for demolition in the late 1800’s, the home was saved and greatly altered, though a lot of the original features still remain.

In 1907, the house was gifted to the city, and is now know as The Writer’s Museum. It displays the works of Scottish literature heroes such as Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.

Riddles Court. One of the oldest buildings on the Royal Mile

Riddles Court is thought to house of one of the oldest tenements still standing on The Royal Mile. Parts of the building dates back to the late 1500s. Its reputation and standing has yo-yo’d drastically, playing host to a banquet for King James VI in 1598, and then becoming an overcrowded slum building that housed 247 people by the 1800s.

Now in the hands of the Scottish Historic Buildings Trust (SHBT), Riddles Court has received a £6M overhaul and acts as a visitor attraction, learning centre, and cultural venue.

The Scotch Whisky Experience Basement Bar. My favourite pace for a whisky dram near Edinburgh Castle

The Scotch Whisky Experience is far from a secret. The enormous building houses 3,384 whisky bottles and sits outside the entrance to Edinburgh Castle. Their interactive tour is one of the most popular in Scotland – so why am I calling it a hidden gem? The basement bar!

With a floor to ceiling line up of pretty much every Scottish whisky you can think of (and drams raging from £3 up to £180+), you won’t find a better whisky bar. For the full experience, be sure you make use of the knowledgeable whisky team, they have a different suggestion for me every time I go, always based on my favourite flavours. Make it your final stop on a self-guided Royal Mile walking tour before heading through the castle gates.

Whether you follow this route from Holyrood Palace to the Castle in one go or dip in and out over a few hours, these hidden gems show that the Royal Mile rewards those who take their time and look beyond the obvious.

Royal Mile Self Guided Walking Tour, FAQs

How long does a self guided walk of the Royal Mile take?
Walking the Royal Mile from Holyrood Palace to Edinburgh Castle takes around 20 minutes without stops. I’d say that following this self-guided route with time for a quick look around gardens, closes and museums, allow at least two to three hours.

However, it has often taken me a full day to tour my friends and visitors up this route, spending more time enjoying museums exhibits etc. If you want to extend it like this, I recommend stopping in to Makar’s Mash Bar for lunch (pre-booking is essential!), and also detouring across to Chambers Street (the next row up) for a good look around The Museum of Scotland.

Can you walk from Holyrood Palace to Edinburgh Castle?
Yes, the Royal Mile runs directly between Holyrood Palace at the bottom of the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle at the top. It is a steady uphill walk and one of the most historic routes in the city.

Is the Royal Mile suitable for a self guided walking tour?
As long as you know what you’re looking for (and now you do!), then yes! The Royal Mile is ideal for a self guided tour. A few of these stops are signposted (keep an eye out for close names) and it’s straight route means it’s easy to navigate.

What are the hidden gems on the Royal Mile?
Hidden gems include Dunbar’s Close garden, the secret courtyard at the Museum of Edinburgh, the ivy heart at Chessels Court, Paisley Close and its historic inscription, and lesser known viewpoints such as Advocates Close.

What are the best closes to visit on the Royal Mile?
Some of the most interesting closes are White Horse Close, Bakehouse Close, Lady Stair’s Close, Advocates Close and Paisley Close, each offering a different glimpse into Edinburgh’s past.

Is the Royal Mile very steep?
While most don’t realise it during a slow walk, The Royal Mile slopes gently uphill from Holyrood to the Castle. It is manageable for most walkers, with plenty of places to stop and rest along the way. However, the bus routes up this road are limited – In 2025 I found myself on crutches for the full year, and navigating the Mile felt like way too much of a challenge.